The last discoveries to mention include Boules of Cidre de Bretagne (delicious), Noix St Jacques (scallops) really delicious, and the Ile de Batz in blazing heat. During our meanderings across Batz (which is rather like one of the Aran Islands. It has a population of 400 people, two schools, and life is based on agriculture, fishing and tourism), we passed the time of day with an old man with a huge hump on his back, teeth as long as tombstones, and a face ravaged by a sea of wrinkles. He used a walking aid to get on and off the boat and explore the island in 25 degrees of heat. So impressive. He must have been about 90,  and , would you believe, was yet another Englishman who had fallen in love with a French woman and stayed in France, but he struggled more with his memory of English so we discussed the tip of Collie dog tails in French.

Since giving up smoking, my French has somewhat deteriorated as I no longer do Duo Lingo in the porch while having a quick ciggie. While I understand quite a lot, and can certainly get by, I don’t remember certain phrases. When people gabble a sentence or two, I get the gist, but I can’t quite remember how to respond. It’s very irritating. I might have to start Duo Lingo again, but its unfortunate I associate it with smoking.

I have found being in France and not smoking very annoying. I used to love sitting in cafes with a vin blanc cassis or a Ricard and a cigarette and now an important part of my enjoyment is missing. The French smoke in such a natural way…the cigarette belongs between their gnarled finger tips, particularly the men. I always felt very at home smoking in France. And now I can’t!

Finally, Poppins and I have discovered there is rain in Brittany…and its quite wetting…but it’s actually quite nice to sit at home, do a little writing, painting and to have the walk to the patisserie in the afternoon to buy Far de Breton for tea as the main attraction of the day…not to mention the Irish/ Tonga rugby match tonight.

So, after the excitement of the rugby match, the days have slipped into a habit of silvery blue…I now have to make the decision to take a separate path to the village for our baguette instead of my habitual one, the evening swim follows a routine promenade, the aperitif will happen at the witching hour (mind you, that will happen wherever I am), my feet know the curvatures and footholds of the coastal path. The sunsets are familiar, the Casino supermarket is home to me now, the couch has moulded itself to my fit and it is time to get ready to leave.

Yesterday we went to Morlaix to the hyper market, Leclerc, to buy the wine and goods to bring home. It was scary…not just negotiating the car park but the shop itself. It was huge, the size of two Rugby pitches. But with grim determination and courage, we advanced on each aisle at a time, ending at the wine. I found some Armagnac, and Champagne for Roisin and Jack’s engagement celebration on our return and fifteen bottles of wine. We will complete our purchases today in our local Casino, happily buying our favourite wine bottles, the right brand of gateau de riz and chocolate puds and I won’t be too embarrassed at the bottles clanking in the trolley and at the till because, well, because another fifteen bottles isn’t too much…is it? I think it will be a pleasurable experience, unlike Leclerc yesterday. After asking, the Lerclec Cashier refused to find us boxes for the wine, then with disaproval pointed to the sign that only 15 items were allowed at this till after she had processed 15 bottles, and then, when there was no label on the anchovies I had picked up, refused to continue until I returned to put them back where I found them. When I asked where in this mad house I had found them, she performed the perfect French shrug! It was quite a stand off…with the queue getting longer. The poor man behind us only had a baguette. Until then I hadn’t come across any of the usual French disdain for foreigners, so in a way, it was a relief to discover not everything has changed!

Yes, it is the end of our Brittany Days. I have loved our near month in Carantec. On Friday we get the overnight ferry back to Cork, stay overnight in Limerick with Joe, and next week, I will be in Dublin with my daughter and granddaughter who, in my absence has started to crawl. So, I have lots of silver linings…not to mention going to Greece to see my oldest friend, Mandy in mid October!!!