We spent the last five days of the UK election campaign in Kerry. On arrival in Cahersiveen, we went straight to Ferdha’s pub and had chowder for lunch:  light, creamy, stuffed with prawn, cod, potato with a hint of sauvignon blanc. I had a pint of smithwick’s shandy and sized up the blackboard specials with an eye on the future, it was to be either curried monkfish or crab. There was not a hint of a politician anywhere, not even Sir Ed Davey bungee jumping.

After returning to the very nice Airbnb, we unpacked and went out to check the lay of the land. That afternoon, we found two ancient stone forts snuggled among a scrabble of coves, a number of smuggling piers, a stretch of beaches, and green cliffs that rose, momentous, into grey cloud, crammed with earth, soil, and craggy rock. When the kids were little, we used to build stone or wood forts…but our skills never extended to the wonders of Cahergal. Meandering the country lanes, we sniffed at the strands of salty air which hung like large luminous diamanté drops on yellow primrose, ragged robin, herb robert.

The next day began with drizzle and lemon tart, fresh baguette, and cappuccinos from Petit Delice. On the way back, I popped into Corkery’s and bought sink strainers, plastic bowls and Epsom salts. I just love those types of shops.

Given the drizzling rain, we decided to investigate what was once the barracks in the town. It stood tall, white, narrow, three stories high, staring over the River Fertha but it looked like a turreted fairy castle. However, do not be fooled. In we went and I was instantly turned into a miserable, haggard, old age pensioner! Having turned sixty-five, I was charged the concessionary price while Joe had to pay the adult price! This was definitely an age pivoting moment for me. Anyway, fortunately, I was able to still climb all three stories. The barracks was all about Daniel O’Connell, the Catholic Emancipator. Did you know he inspired Ghandi? I was impressed! Later in the week, we visited O’Connell’s enormous, lovely house and gardens (with plants imported from South America) in Derrynane…and let me tell you, he could afford to be lavish in sentiment!

On day two, Valentia Island beckoned us across a narrow concrete bridge. We decide to explore the island in clockwise direction so our first stop was Bray Head. (Obviously, we are still in Kerry, not Wicklow). Up we climbed to visit a clump of cows, poised precariously, at the tip of the cliff. I don’t think they have cattle on Bray Head in Wicklow. When occasionally a ray of sunshine was able to pinpoint them in the sea mist, the views of Skellig islands were fantastic. Next, we meandered around to the Light House perched on the cliff. During our explorations, we went up to the top of the lighthouse and tapped out our names in dots and dashes. It was very windy, and I had to cling to the side to avoid being blown off. After much needed carrot cake in the café, we went on to check out the Tetrapod prints. These are the footprints of the first fish ever to emerge from the sea and walk on the earth. It happened here…in Kerry! We wondered how the geologists knew. I bet the Healy Raes told them. Later, watching the footy, I thought about how impressive it is that, after a million years, those fishes evolved to become these two teams of grown men kicking a ball around a field, and men shouting at each other over a podium.

On day three, we climbed to the high of the Castlequinn Loop, trying to avoid stepping on the buttons and black swirls of poop that come from arses of the horny sheep that stood on the rocks, bleating for all their worth. It was beautiful…for an hour. There was blue sky, rays of sun, emerald seas and a glorious vista of Horse and Puffin islands. Sated with such incidental glory, we headed down for lunch in Cahersiveen. Unfortunately, I chomped on an olive which was in my Greek Salad and it broke my tooth! I can now feel a jagged hole and it hurts when I breath in air. I did know my dentist was also in Kerry (bodyboarding with his kids) but I don’t know where. So, instead, I go buy Ibu Profen, which does the trick. That evening, by way of consolation, Joe took us out to The Oratory, a converted church, for pizza and wine. (You see, the roles are definitely reversing). Anyway, old or not, it was a lot better than communion!

On our last day we head to Catherdaniel. The weather storms around between wind, sun and rain but these are elements with which we’re now at home. In Waterville, coaches of tourists clamber out of coaches to mill and snap the fabulous views. We pass by. The road rises. The sky is blue. We come to a bend and drive through a mountain pass, gasp with delight at the stunning view: glistening gems and sparkling jewels are all aglitter in the sea. We laugh with glee, and descend down through a glorious avenue of trees and fragmented rays of sun, to reach Derrynane beach. It is practically empty and beautiful. The tide is out. Joe and I canter across the sand, over rocks and pools, in the dunes. The wind is fresh, the stone is warm, the sea is blue,  black, grey or green. The air is filled with sun and rain. Glorious.

On Thursday 4 July, we have to wend our way home, away from glistening seas, and back up to Cavan via Limerick where we drop Joe off. At five o’clock, we pick up Poppins from Precious Pets, and come home. I make leek soup, lay out cheese and crackers, ready to watch the British election results. Last time we watched the British elections, my friends Kevin Higgins and Susan Millar du Mars were with us and it was a wipe out for Labour. Thank God, this time, the Tories are wiped out. Kevin would have enjoyed it. I truly hope that Labour is able to tackle the poverty and Tory destruction in a more comprehensive manner than Keir Starmer suggested on his campaign. I am also pleased by the increased Lib Dem vote. I found myself in agreement with more of their policies before I went to Kerry than Labour’s. The increase in the Reform vote is very alarming and scary but, at least, there is now a salty glimmer of hope in the air in the UK, though I’m pretty sure it will be stormy weather ahead!